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Textile Design & Fashion
"Dufy's fabrics were like a ray of sunlight on a gloomy day; they were embraced by the fashion industry, giving it a note of fun and spontaneity that had not been seen before."
Sonia Delaunay, 1927
Raoul Dufy was one of the great innovators of 20th century textile design, but this aspect of his work has remained relatively unknown.
This influential and generally unrecognized facet of Dufy’s creation is thoroughly explored in the exhibition, which includes nearly 100 fabrics, and textile designs created by Dufy from 1910 - 1930.
Dufy transformed the face of fashion and fabric design, formulated practically all modern fabric design between 1909 and 1930, and his style most radically influenced the popular arts and the commercial design of the Western world.
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Study for a fabric design, gouache
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Fruits of Europe, silk fabric, c. 1920
Le Souris, c. 1911, woodcut illustration for the Bestiaire. This design was used as the inspiration for the fabric Fruits of Europe
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Even today, his vision influences the color, design, texture and imagery of a wide range of products such as book covers, perfumes, posters and stage decor, and textiles for furniture and clothing.
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It was his friendship with Poiret that first gave Dufy the scope he needed to develop his talents.
His fabrics immediately aroused great interest. Dufy's designs were very different from the available printed silk fabrics which had small paisley or polka dot designs.
Dufy's fabrics were stunning and Poiret used them extensively in his fashions, creating magnificent coats, capes and dresses in sumptuous silk brocades block-printed with large designs, such as La Perse; and when Poiret took his models to the races to publicize them, they were the center of attraction.
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La Perse, 1911, made from a printed Dufy velvet, black and white velvet cape, with green silk lining , and fur trimming, designed by Paul Poiret
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Les Violons, wool scarf.
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While working with Paul Poiret, the pioneering and innovative French fashion designer of the early 20th century, and then between 1912 and 1928 with Bianchini-Ferier (the leading French silk manufacturer) , Dufy created a wealth of original Art Deco designs in silks, dress fabrics, and wall hangings.
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Charles Bianchini, a partner in the leading French silk firm Bianchini-Ferier, based in Lyons, noticed the fabrics Dufy had created for Poiret, and recognized their commercial significance. He was to make Dufy one of the most influential 20th century textile designers.
From 1911 onwards and for nearly 20 years, Dufy's creations decorated thousands of square meters of silk and other fabrics, and his output at the time was widely recognized. Yet, until recently, most studies of Dufy have not given this aspect of his work much attention, and usually they mention it only very briefly.
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Les Tortues, silk fabric with silver metallic thread, c. 1920
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"Dufy designed and carved woodcuts for me based on the illustrations he had just created for Apollinaire's Bestiaire. I made dresses with the sumptuous materials printed from them....."
Paul Poiret, En Habillant l'Epoque, Paris, 1930
Les Tortues, silk fabric with gold metallic thread, c. 1920
"I have said that a few other great artists helped to create a different way of seeing things in our century, although I believe that Dufy from the examination of paintings and drawing as well as from his own textile designs, has had the widest and deepest influence in applied art....... But Dufy works harder at various forms of applied art than any other serious painter in our century and his achievement in the field of decorative art can only be described as monumental. His work as a designer of fabrics, for example, is in my view, unparalleled in the 20th century......"
1983, Bryan Robertson
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All of the images on this site are protected by copyright. Please do not reproduce without permission
The images on this page are courtesy of Bianchini-Ferier,
Photographer, Aurelie Foussard
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